Chef Scotty’s Monday Restaurant Review
As of recent, my daily journal has been consumed with self-introspection & reflection . . perhaps it’s time we get back to the food element. Going forward, I’ll likely hold back some of the weekend warrior adventures and in it’s place – offer up a taste of perspective & preference in reviewing some lucky (or unfortunate) establishment be that a restaurant, bar, cafe, diner, artisan food vendor, brewerie, etc. etc.). I have appropriately named this oblique, opinionated Monday review, “Roast-or-Toast.” Without further ado, let us suck on some utter differences between gelato & ice cream (affectionate singing Cows no longer heralding from Wisconsin but Fresno, California WTF????)
• ice cream is typically served frozen, gelato is typically stored and served at a slightly warmer temperature, so it’s not quite completely frozen.
• ice cream legally has a minimum of 10 percent fat, gelato is made with a greater proportion of whole milk to cream, so it contains more like five to 5 to 7 percent fat.
• gelato is churned at a slower speed than ice cream, so it’s denser because not as much air is whipped into the mixture. (Gelato contains about 25 % air, while ice cream is upwards 50% air)
• Finally, since there’s not as much fat in gelato, it doesn’t coat the mouth in the same way. So the flavors are more intense
My Vienna Gelato
I met this strikingly handsome and extrovertly amicable Austrian at the Beverly Hills Chamber Mixer some time ago and I knew it was going somewhere. That “where” ended up being my event this past Saturday in Beverly Hills, as “Spin” (also named Czbynek Miynarik but I doubt any of us really want to try and pronounce that) hauled his tricked out, 1,500 pound portable gelato bar up, over & around countless obstructive obstacles before settling into his designated poolside parking spot. Shit! – I rearranged the layout of the event and totally forgot about his need for a 320 outlet capable of taking his 3 pronged cord. A Norwegian Rat couldn’t have scurried any faster in seeking out the needed outlet! (the Gelato would melt should we not provide swift solution in accessing refrigeration).
Spin managed to save himself, his gelato and therefore save me the embarrassment of a liquid dessert bar. The spectrum of flavors offered was rather straight forward as one might expect of any Italian born confection: Lemon, Espresso, Pistachio, European Cookies, Passionfruit, Coconut just to name a few. Perhaps it was the ever silky smooth and pious Belgian Chocolate reverently melting in my mouth that evoked a gastronomical symphony of Gregorian Chant. Or was it the Lemon Sorbetto that so perfectly lifted my tongue to the tasteful ballad of Sarah Brightmans “Deliver Me.” I briefly lost complete sight of the moment. Spin’s authentic gelato presents no gimmicks or rebellious converts; just excellent ingredients prepared by a passionate & trained master. Italian or Austrian it makes no difference . . . sometimes simplicity is the righteous route to perfection.
My Vienna Gelato
Neveux Artisan Creamery
It’s not too often that I’ll expel my deepest admiration of any particular culinary invention (this goes for my own spirited take on cooking!) but I must say that I haven’t heard of, probably wouldn’t have ever thought of, and likely never will conjur up my own attempt at blending Rosemary & Butterscotch into one marvel of an ice cream – but this Leo Neveux has done it. My second scoop into creamed divinity was non-other than Pineapple Sage to which I believed to be the herb infused cream version (yes there is such a growing sativa as pineapple-sage) and was rather a blend of true pineapple, egg yolk, organic sugar & sage provoked leche. It still had a touch of water content to it (from the fruit) which created a bit more icicle action than likely intended; however I found it to be endearing of childhood memories huddled over the ice cream machine with my Father. That old bucket churning, the slushy ice & rock salt working diligently together, the transformation of viscous custard underway (to which we would add wild black raspberries – sooooooo damn delicious). Neveux has captured my respect as a creative ice creamatologist and I have absolutely no doubt in my mind that I will be back for the coconut-curry-lemongrass, the olive oil-basil, the lemon-cherry-molasses or anything else that this man endeavors to spoil our consorted citizens of Los Angeles with. (BTY: I had the pepper-peach today and nearly creamed my own pants it was so good!)
NEVEUX Artisan Creamery & Espresso Bar
7407 ½ Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90046
Sometimes the infatuation,
Sometimes the cure, whatever your pleasure it’s just cold, cool -n- creamy delciousness!
With Culinary Blessings,